Published on harpersbazaarabia.com, June 2024
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More than just a fragrant elixir, perfume layering is rooted in self-care and self-expression.
Arab fragrances are renowned the world over for their effervescent aromas that capture the essence of the region and its people. Rich and unique, with multi-faceted blends, at the heart of these perfumes lie a culturally-significant layering process.
According to Forat Al Haider, fragrance expert at oriental perfume brand, Ghawali, and director of beauty innovation at Chalhoub Group, fragrance is ingrained within the lifestyle of the Middle East. “The approach we have to fragrances is completely different to that of the West,” he says.
“It’s not just about spraying on a perfume before leaving the house. There is a ritual to it. It is connected to our daily routines, as well as ceremonial events happening in our lives, such as weddings, gatherings, things happening in our home. All of these factors influence the way we apply our perfumes, and sets the context for different layering techniques,” he says.
Today, fragrance layering has become synonymous with the Middle East, and its complex scents are nearly impossible to replicate.
Bazaar Arabia chatted to Forat Al Haider and Laila Joukhdar, Senior Marketing Manager at Chalhoub Group, to discover the origins and intricacies of this age-old art form.
Cultivating A Fragrance Personality
Fragrance layering has roots in the region as people used it as a means to stand out. “If you look back to a few years ago, when things were more traditional in terms of black and white abayas, your way of standing out was through your accessories, but also through having own scented perfume,” says Forat. “By mixing Arabic perfumes or oils with a Western perfume, it allowed you to create your own fragrance identity, steeped in heritage and your personal rituals. It provided a differentiating factor from the standard designer perfumes, such as Tom Ford or Ghawali, for example,” he says.
Creating A Personal Routine
A major component of fragrance identity is the personalised routines of each individual. “Its kind of like doing a skincare routine,” says Leila. “Usually when I get out the shower, I like to apply my concentrated oil. I’ll put on a scented lotion and a hair mist, and then I’ll put on the actual perfume. I might even do a little bit of oud as a final touch,” she says.
Much like a 12-step Korean skincare routine, fragrance layering can be condensed and adapted depending on the situation. “You don’t always have to do the full routine,” says Forat.
He emphasises that fragrance layering is dependent on four main factors: the person, the occasion, location, and seasonality. “Layering is very different in terms of winter versus summer, and if you’re on-the-go versus getting ready for an important event.”
“Everyone is on their own personal routine, so it’s important to find what works for you.” According to Forat, a standard fragrance routine, which can then be adjusted and adapted depending on one’s needs, comprises of seven main steps.
“It starts in the shower, where people apply a body lotion and the shampoo. Thereafter, they will use a hair and body oil, and most likely a body lotion as well. Once dressed, they it is common for people to use a body incense, like the smoke, for example, and then move on to a hair mist or perfume as well. Lastly, a final layer of perfumes or oils are applied,” he says.
Finding The Right Fragrance Combinations For You
When it comes to combining fragrances, Forat says its important to find a balance between strong and subtle. “Just like everything in life, it’s important to find an equilibrium – fragrance should be approached in the same way,” he says.
For the base note, he recommends using a scent that’s both strong and versatile. “It’s important to have those key notes that you can easily build upon, while still smelling lovely 12 to 14 hours down the line,” he says. Scents such as oud, musk, Cedarwood, and Sandalwood are popular base notes, along with vanilla, bergamot and other citrusy notes, as they are easy to play around with.
Once your base note has been established, you can then layer your perfumes throughout the day. “They usually come in little bottles that are easy to carry around in purses and bags so you can just refresh quickly with that. You can change and reshuffle your perfume depending on what you’re doing,” says Forat.
Exploration Through Scent
Over the last ten years, the fragrance industry has undergone a major shift. According to Forat, he has witnessed what he calls the “liberation of perfumes”, where consumers are taking a stronger interest in the fragrances they use, and influencing the way perfume houses present their fragrance offerings.
“I think before, when big fragrance houses launched a perfume, you have to accept it. It was not a very democratic process. However, it nowadays, people seem to have a much stronger interest in perfumes. With social media and the rising influence of consumers, big fragrances houses are listening a lot more to what people want, which is the way it should be,” he says.
At the heart of every fragrance blend is an intimate approach to self-expression. “There is no right or wrong,” says Forat. “Perfume layering is a personal journey and is unique to every individual. No person will ever smell exactly like you do,” he affirms.
Lead image: Supplied/Ghawali