Article published in African Independent Magazine, Nov 2018
Designer and business owner Sarah Diouf may have viewed her African multiculturalism as unconventional in the past but today, her mixed heritage is precisely the source from where she draws her inspiration and functions as a unique selling point for her contemporary clothing brand, Tongoro Studio.
Currently based in Dakar, Senegal, Sarah Diouf’s Tongoro Studio is making a mark on both the African continent and global fashion scene with her ready-to- wear designs that she describes as light, graphic, bold and timeless – a reflection of the easy-going lifestyle and vibrant culture of her surroundings. With the likes of superstar Beyoncé being a fan of the label (and donning not one, but two Tongoro looks on a recent European yacht break), the brand has come a long way since its inception two years ago.
In addition, Sarah is also the founder of Ifren Media Group, which publishes NOIR magazine, an online fashion and lifestyle platform for women of colour.
Born in Paris but raised in Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire – and with parents of Senegalese, Congolese and central African descent – Sarah credits her mother for instilling her love of fashion at an early age. “She’s always been a lover of aesthetics and beautiful things. I would go on raids in her closet when she was travelling,” she recalls.
But fashion was not her initial venture when starting out in her career. While enrolled in business school, Sarah founded Ghubar magazine, an online cultural publication aimed at promoting the emergence of the Arabic and African art scenes. She then completed stints as a junior media planner and listing assistant manager before joining the Marc Jacobs bookstore as a social media manager in Paris after graduating.
Yet, she continued to nurture her creative ambitions by working part-time with photographer Jean Paul Goude’s styling team.“With all those great experiences in publishing, media and fashion, I was able to quit in 2013 to focus exclusively on my projects.”
One project that came to fruition was Tongoro Studio. Sarah noticed a gap in the African fashion market that she was eager to fill. “When African fashion was starting to take over a few years ago, I noticed that most of the brands were positioning themselves as luxury, with a price point close to the global luxury powerhouses we know. I wanted to offer something more affordable – to give everyone the chance to own something that’s 100% ‘Made in Africa’.”
At the same time, she was – and still is – eager to change people’s perception towards locally made African goods by showcasing the sublime talent and exceptional quality, combined with the genuine passion birthed on the continent.
Characterised by daring prints, striking silhouettes and light and airy fabrics, Sarah describes the ideal Tongoro woman as a “fearless adventurer”.
As a designer, she is inspired by “African dances, music and rhythms” and uses this dynamism to fuel her creative process. “When I listen to music, I visualise a mood the character I am designing for moves and evolves in. I think creating is a 360-degree process and perspective; you can’t design without considering an environment – it involves space, movement, sound and sight,” she explains.
Dakar holds a special place in her heart, too. The location functions as another core component to her designs as well as the overall running of her business.
“Dakar is a living cultural celebration, and encompasses a crossroads between tradition and modernism that fascinates me. It is also a very tranquil environment where people can express themselves freely and co-exist peacefully. To me, Dakar is a feeling — and to experience this city is to get the feeling of returning home to yourself.”
However, she not only absorbs from the city but also wants to invest in it. “My long-term goal is to contribute to the development of retail production in Western Africa, starting with our first atelier here in Dakar. I aspire to contribute in structuring the profession, which, up until now, has been very artisanal,” she says.
Through her business, Sarah trains her tailors to produce quality garments by respecting international standards, which has allowed the few people who work for her to improve their skillset and earn a better income. “I think that is upliftment on all levels,” she adds.
While Tongoro aims to portray an authentically African narrative, Sarah believes that culture is a very ‘delicate’ subject matter. On the topic of Western designers adopting the aesthetic as just another passing trend, she says: “Western design houses should preferably work in collaboration with someone who understands [the culture] or who is from it rather than copying and pasting.
“There is an essence and feeling to Africa that only Africans can truly capture and translate well.” Yet she acknowledges that the global creative scene is large and there is enough space for everyone to express themselves: “Everyone has the right to be inspired and translate an aesthetic as long as it’s done rightfully and respectfully,” she says.
As the spotlight on Africa as a creative hub grows ever more prevalent, many local designers continue to look abroad for trend forecasts and idea generation, but Sarah’s concerns are less seasonal and more sustainable. “Africa’s time is now and it is about time. We, as African creatives, need to start living our own culture and talent.
“I pay attention to what’s happening everywhere, at all times; I believe you have to, but I am not really trying to incorporate trends into my brand. I want to offer pieces that can be worn over time. A beautiful piece remains a beautiful piece but trends can quickly become dated.”
As Sarah utilises the digital space as her main business platform, she says she has no plans to expand Tongoro into a traditional brick-and-mortar store. “The digital space has been the best tool so far to get people to embark on this journey with me. I’ve been able to reach a global audience and market, and share a story that has brought something new to the table in the spectrum of African fashion,” she notes.
From her first-ever Fashion Week presentation in Cape Town in March, to working on numerous collaborations, including her very own documentary ‘Building an African Dream’ that shares her career path so far, 2018 has been a stellar year for the force that is Sarah Diouf.
With her business prowess, visionary ambitions and heart on her sleeve, there is no stopping this fashion tour de force.
